There is a lot of misinformation when it comes to the subject of getting into modeling and the cost factor when it comes to being agency represented.
It's difficult to say exactly what the price tag of modeling could be due to the variety of factors, not to mention that no two people's journeys are exactly the same.
There are a few basic ways to break down certain expenses as a starting point. Keep in mind any price ranges mentioned here are not set in stone.
Also consider the fact that the actual expenses/costs incurred will be different from market to market.
Small markets have very different costs for operation compared to a medium or large sized market.
To get the gist of this type of scale: New York, Los Angeles and Miami are considered examples of "large markets" in the US.
SUBMITTING TO AN AGENCY
The cost of submitting your snapshots and information to an agency or attending an open call costs zero. Period. There should be no application or processing fees to send your materials via email, agency website or postal mail for consideration or a charge at the door for an open call.
SIGNING WITH AN AGENCY
Legitimate agencies will not require you to pay any kind of "upfront fee" before offering you a contract to sign. Making models pay for classes/workshops/training, etc. as a condition to offering a contract for representation is a huge no-no. Unfortunately, there are agencies who find legal loopholes that allow them to technically pull this off.
This is common in smaller markets, where the work isn't as plentiful for agencies so they have to find additional means of generating income aside from the commissions they receive from the booked gigs they get for their models. It's one of the reasons why some agencies become affiliated with modeling schools and conventions or institute their own modeling school as part of the agency structure.
Does this mean they shouldn't be considered? If money is a major concern for you, it might be best to consider agencies in this category as backup options if the more traditionally structured agencies pass on your submission.
TEST SHOOTS
This is one of the biggest controversies when it comes to modeling and working with agencies. Are you supposed to pay for test shoots? The answer is: it entirely depends on the agency and how they operate. As mentioned above, as long as any fees related to the test shoot aren't required before signing a contract, then an agency is within its right to have a model cover any expenses related to the test shoot.
I've already written a blog post that breaks down the options available to newly signed models in regards to test shoots so if you want to read up on that in terms of potential costs, click the link below:
THE DEAL WITH AGENCIES & TEST SHOOTS FOR PORTFOLIO BUILDING
As a reminder: when signing to a new agency, test shoots are necessary for creating the images that will make up a new model's portfolio, headshots, comp/zed cards and other marketing materials.
CASTINGS
A normal part of a model's routine is attending castings and go-sees. When your agent sends you out to a casting or go-see, there will be costs, mainly related to gas and parking or public transit. Of course, if you end up getting something to eat while you're out there, that's also on you.
When it comes to castings, no agency is going to give you spending money or a stipend. It's not possible, nor is it realistic. Having to cover transportation costs to get to and from castings is--and always will be--a model's responsibility.
Now if you get hired/booked for a modeling gig, that's different. If there is travel involved, such as airfare and hotel accommodations, those expenses will be factored in and covered by the client.
So if you think about it, paying for gas/parking or a commute to castings isn't that big of an issue when you know the client will cover everything moving forward once you're hired. If you don't snag the gig? Then it's on to the next casting!
PHOTOSHOOTS
In addition to getting tearsheets from published work to build a portfolio, it is important for model's to do photoshoots to update their look and make sure the images their agency has are the most current.
There is no hard and fast rule as to how many shoots a model should do when it comes to updating a portfolio but needless to say, you shouldn't go more than 3-6 months without doing at least one photoshoot to have new photos to showcase.
Many models have photographers they regularly work with and in those instances, it could be free of cost in the form of a test shoot. Both the photographer and the model benefit from that but if you don't have such a luxury at your disposal, then there will be costs involved with hiring a photographer to work with.
I certainly can't list exactly what photographers charge because it varies extremely. But $150+ is a fairly common starting point, price-wise. Need to also bring on board a makeup artist and/or hair stylist? Then you're going to have to factor the costs for those services as well, if they aren't open to doing it for free. If you can manage to do your own hair and makeup (and have it look good!), then you'll definitely save some money in that sense.
WARDROBE/MAKEUP/SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
When it comes to having the right wardrobe for castings (this is especially the case for commercial/print models), that's a cost you'll have to budget for. Of course, that doesn't mean you have to spend a small fortune on clothes. Below are links to help you afford a casting-ready closet for any budget:
WHY STORES LIKE TARGET, WALMART, ROSS & TJ MAXX ARE A MODEL'S BEST FRIEND
WARDROBE TIPS FOR MALE COMMERCIAL/PRINT MODELS
WARDROBE TIPS FOR FEMALE COMMERCIAL/PRINT MODELS
Similar to the situation with attending castings, models are responsible for any wardrobe purchases, makeup and skin care products.
When it comes to wardrobe, if you're booked for a paid gig and there is a wardrobe stylist, chances are you don't have to worry about buying anything. At most, they'll ask you to bring clothing options you already have in your closet. If you don't have an article of clothing they ask for, that's okay, they'll purchase it--that's their job!
AGENCY WEBSITE FEES
In today's age of technology, many agencies have fees associated with the operation and maintenance of having a website. Hosting photo galleries and having its models displayed sometimes means charging a small fee. Those costs vary from market to market and agency to agency.
Although not all agencies have these types of fees, that doesn't mean the ones who do are trying to get over on you. However, what you do want to be on the lookout for is the cost and how often they want you to pay.
If it's an annual fee, the cost could be anywhere from $50-$300. Big range, right? Again, it all depends but in my opinion, the higher the fee for website maintenance and having your photos on the agency site, the more skeptical I would be.
I've been signed to agencies where the annual website fee was $100. I've heard of others that were only $50 or $75. For monthly fees, the cost could hover somewhere between $10-$15.
You won't know for sure what those specific costs are (if applicable) until you have a contract in your hands, which is one of the many reasons why it is SO important to read agency contracts and go over it with a fine tooth comb before signing anything.
Better yet, having an attorney who knows entertainment law is one of the best ways to make sure you understand the meat and potatoes of the contract, including whatever expenses/fees you'll be responsible for. That's optional and not mandatory, however.
TERMINATING A CONTRACT
Whatever the reason might be for ending an agency contract early, 99.9% of the time, there is a clause that explains the model's responsibility to pay the agency any outstanding balances before honoring the termination of the contract.
What does this mean? Let's say you signed with the agency and they opted to cover the cost of your test shoot. How do you pay them back? By getting modeling jobs. The commission taken out of each booking gets applied to the overall balance you owe the agency. Think of it as a short term loan.
But what happens if you have X amount left to pay back and the contract is being terminated? Well, the agency can't guarantee you'll get additional paid work by the time the contract is about to be kaput. That means you've got to pay the difference. In the unfortunate instance you didn't book any work while you were signed, you are still legally on the hook for the entire amount owed.
This is also the case if a model hasn't paid the agency the commission from booked gigs. 9 times out of 10, the clients pay the agency directly but there are some exceptions where the model receives the payment and has to set aside the specified commission amount to then send to the agency.
Regardless of the details, if any money is owed to the agency when the contract is set to be terminated, the model has to make sure they can make good on that debt to avoid the agency taking legal action.
It's difficult to say exactly what the price tag of modeling could be due to the variety of factors, not to mention that no two people's journeys are exactly the same.
There are a few basic ways to break down certain expenses as a starting point. Keep in mind any price ranges mentioned here are not set in stone.
Also consider the fact that the actual expenses/costs incurred will be different from market to market.
Small markets have very different costs for operation compared to a medium or large sized market.
To get the gist of this type of scale: New York, Los Angeles and Miami are considered examples of "large markets" in the US.
SUBMITTING TO AN AGENCY
The cost of submitting your snapshots and information to an agency or attending an open call costs zero. Period. There should be no application or processing fees to send your materials via email, agency website or postal mail for consideration or a charge at the door for an open call.
SIGNING WITH AN AGENCY
Legitimate agencies will not require you to pay any kind of "upfront fee" before offering you a contract to sign. Making models pay for classes/workshops/training, etc. as a condition to offering a contract for representation is a huge no-no. Unfortunately, there are agencies who find legal loopholes that allow them to technically pull this off.
This is common in smaller markets, where the work isn't as plentiful for agencies so they have to find additional means of generating income aside from the commissions they receive from the booked gigs they get for their models. It's one of the reasons why some agencies become affiliated with modeling schools and conventions or institute their own modeling school as part of the agency structure.
Does this mean they shouldn't be considered? If money is a major concern for you, it might be best to consider agencies in this category as backup options if the more traditionally structured agencies pass on your submission.
TEST SHOOTS
This is one of the biggest controversies when it comes to modeling and working with agencies. Are you supposed to pay for test shoots? The answer is: it entirely depends on the agency and how they operate. As mentioned above, as long as any fees related to the test shoot aren't required before signing a contract, then an agency is within its right to have a model cover any expenses related to the test shoot.
I've already written a blog post that breaks down the options available to newly signed models in regards to test shoots so if you want to read up on that in terms of potential costs, click the link below:
THE DEAL WITH AGENCIES & TEST SHOOTS FOR PORTFOLIO BUILDING
As a reminder: when signing to a new agency, test shoots are necessary for creating the images that will make up a new model's portfolio, headshots, comp/zed cards and other marketing materials.
CASTINGS
A normal part of a model's routine is attending castings and go-sees. When your agent sends you out to a casting or go-see, there will be costs, mainly related to gas and parking or public transit. Of course, if you end up getting something to eat while you're out there, that's also on you.
When it comes to castings, no agency is going to give you spending money or a stipend. It's not possible, nor is it realistic. Having to cover transportation costs to get to and from castings is--and always will be--a model's responsibility.
Now if you get hired/booked for a modeling gig, that's different. If there is travel involved, such as airfare and hotel accommodations, those expenses will be factored in and covered by the client.
So if you think about it, paying for gas/parking or a commute to castings isn't that big of an issue when you know the client will cover everything moving forward once you're hired. If you don't snag the gig? Then it's on to the next casting!
PHOTOSHOOTS
In addition to getting tearsheets from published work to build a portfolio, it is important for model's to do photoshoots to update their look and make sure the images their agency has are the most current.
There is no hard and fast rule as to how many shoots a model should do when it comes to updating a portfolio but needless to say, you shouldn't go more than 3-6 months without doing at least one photoshoot to have new photos to showcase.
Many models have photographers they regularly work with and in those instances, it could be free of cost in the form of a test shoot. Both the photographer and the model benefit from that but if you don't have such a luxury at your disposal, then there will be costs involved with hiring a photographer to work with.
I certainly can't list exactly what photographers charge because it varies extremely. But $150+ is a fairly common starting point, price-wise. Need to also bring on board a makeup artist and/or hair stylist? Then you're going to have to factor the costs for those services as well, if they aren't open to doing it for free. If you can manage to do your own hair and makeup (and have it look good!), then you'll definitely save some money in that sense.
WARDROBE/MAKEUP/SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
When it comes to having the right wardrobe for castings (this is especially the case for commercial/print models), that's a cost you'll have to budget for. Of course, that doesn't mean you have to spend a small fortune on clothes. Below are links to help you afford a casting-ready closet for any budget:
WHY STORES LIKE TARGET, WALMART, ROSS & TJ MAXX ARE A MODEL'S BEST FRIEND
WARDROBE TIPS FOR MALE COMMERCIAL/PRINT MODELS
WARDROBE TIPS FOR FEMALE COMMERCIAL/PRINT MODELS
Similar to the situation with attending castings, models are responsible for any wardrobe purchases, makeup and skin care products.
When it comes to wardrobe, if you're booked for a paid gig and there is a wardrobe stylist, chances are you don't have to worry about buying anything. At most, they'll ask you to bring clothing options you already have in your closet. If you don't have an article of clothing they ask for, that's okay, they'll purchase it--that's their job!
AGENCY WEBSITE FEES
In today's age of technology, many agencies have fees associated with the operation and maintenance of having a website. Hosting photo galleries and having its models displayed sometimes means charging a small fee. Those costs vary from market to market and agency to agency.
Although not all agencies have these types of fees, that doesn't mean the ones who do are trying to get over on you. However, what you do want to be on the lookout for is the cost and how often they want you to pay.
If it's an annual fee, the cost could be anywhere from $50-$300. Big range, right? Again, it all depends but in my opinion, the higher the fee for website maintenance and having your photos on the agency site, the more skeptical I would be.
I've been signed to agencies where the annual website fee was $100. I've heard of others that were only $50 or $75. For monthly fees, the cost could hover somewhere between $10-$15.
You won't know for sure what those specific costs are (if applicable) until you have a contract in your hands, which is one of the many reasons why it is SO important to read agency contracts and go over it with a fine tooth comb before signing anything.
Better yet, having an attorney who knows entertainment law is one of the best ways to make sure you understand the meat and potatoes of the contract, including whatever expenses/fees you'll be responsible for. That's optional and not mandatory, however.
TERMINATING A CONTRACT
Whatever the reason might be for ending an agency contract early, 99.9% of the time, there is a clause that explains the model's responsibility to pay the agency any outstanding balances before honoring the termination of the contract.
What does this mean? Let's say you signed with the agency and they opted to cover the cost of your test shoot. How do you pay them back? By getting modeling jobs. The commission taken out of each booking gets applied to the overall balance you owe the agency. Think of it as a short term loan.
But what happens if you have X amount left to pay back and the contract is being terminated? Well, the agency can't guarantee you'll get additional paid work by the time the contract is about to be kaput. That means you've got to pay the difference. In the unfortunate instance you didn't book any work while you were signed, you are still legally on the hook for the entire amount owed.
This is also the case if a model hasn't paid the agency the commission from booked gigs. 9 times out of 10, the clients pay the agency directly but there are some exceptions where the model receives the payment and has to set aside the specified commission amount to then send to the agency.
Regardless of the details, if any money is owed to the agency when the contract is set to be terminated, the model has to make sure they can make good on that debt to avoid the agency taking legal action.
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